If you’ve been living in Prague for more than a few weeks, you’ve probably discovered that Vinohrady is special. The tree-lined streets, the cafes, the parks – the whole atmosphere makes it one of the most desirable places to live in the city. But what many expats don’t realize is just how many beautiful spots exist within walking distance for those moments when you need to escape your apartment or spend a Sunday doing absolutely nothing productive.
Locals know this square as Mírák, and it functions as the unofficial center of Vinohrady. The beautiful basilica of Saint Ludmila sits surrounded by a pleasant park with several sculptures, including the monument to the Čapek brothers, important Czech writers from the early twentieth century.
The real story happens underground. Beneath Náměstí Míru sits the deepest metro station in Prague. The escalator ride alone takes exactly two minutes and thirty-six seconds. If you’ve never experienced it, try it once just for the novelty. According to current plans, this station will eventually become a transfer point between Metro Line A and the new Line D.
This large, beautifully landscaped park was created in the early twentieth century. In summer and spring, this place gets packed with people enjoying the weather, drinking wine and beer, and having a great time.
About two hundred years ago, this was all vineyards – which is literally what Vinohrady means in Czech. The park is named after František Ladislav Rieger, a nineteenth-century Czech politician who helped separate the Czech nation from Austria-Hungary. He also wrote the first Czech encyclopedia, making him the original Czech nerd.
What makes Riegrovy sady special? The magnificent views of Prague Castle and the city skyline. If you like sunsets, this is one of the best spots in Prague. Just skip it in winter when the wind makes the hilltop less pleasant.
In the heart of the park, you’ll find Pivnice Riegrovy sady, a great place for beer and snacks. My favorite part is the beer garden, open from April until October for various events, sports activities, and mainly beer and burčák – partially fermented young wine that Czechs drink in autumn.
If you’re active, the park offers running paths, outdoor exercise areas, picnics on large lawns, plus nearby swimming pool, tennis courts, and the TJ Bohemians stadium.
You can either practice your Czech by pronouncing the full name, or use the expat-friendly JZP. I used to live just around the corner on Belgická Street, and I genuinely believe this square has the highest concentration of expats in all of Prague.
The square is currently under major renovation, but usually hosts farmers markets, people on benches, and families on the grass. Dogs aren’t allowed on certain parts, which keeps it clean for kids.
The restaurant scene here is exceptional. A few favorites: Antoan Vietnamese Bistro, Cafefin and Miners Coffee (hidden behind the corner), Kro Chicken, Nejen Bistro (unique bar connected with a second-hand clothing shop), and Laho for fresh French bakery goods.
The church in the middle was built between 1928 and 1932. It’s actually the second design – the first was rejected for not being modern enough for the twentieth century. This one supposedly reminds viewers of Noah’s Ark, though that requires some imagination.
Between JZP and Náměstí Míru lies this park that many walk through without knowing its name. Mature trees provide shade in summer, there’s a water fountain where kids play, and in winter it becomes an ice skating rink.
Those strange tower structures? Ventilation shafts for the metro running beneath. You can cross the park in about four minutes, making it perfect for quick cut-throughs between destinations.
If you’re new to Vinohrady, spend a Saturday walking this route. Start at Náměstí Míru, grab something from the legendary hot dog stand. Walk through the square toward Riegrovy sady. Spend an hour in the park. Head to JZP, stop at a cafe. Then walk through Sady Svatopluka Čecha back to complete the circuit.
This takes two to three hours with stops, less if you’re moving quickly. But the point isn’t rushing. The point is experiencing how the neighborhood feels when you’re not on a schedule.
Pay attention to small details. The mix of people you encounter. The condition of buildings. The shops and restaurants. These details tell you more about whether Vinohrady fits your lifestyle than any article could.
Looking for more insights about Prague neighborhoods or need help with property purchases? I’ve been helping foreigners navigate the Czech real estate market since 2014.
Reach out at robin@expatsfinance.cz or call +420 777 877 849.
Robin Petrásek Founder, Expats Finance
